Just an hour outside of Palm Springs, Joshua Tree is the kind of desert destination that was made for rest and rejuvenation. The stillness of the land feels like a healing backdrop for solitude, nature, or wellness. After our Palm Springs weekend, we spent a couple of days there for my friend Jen’s birthday, working remotely,…

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Looking back, this was an incredible undertaking for my immigrant parents, who were neither skiers themselves nor rich white people who knew other rich white people who knew how to ski. Driving in snow (these are people who grew up on a subtropical island), renting skis, poles, boots, and helmets, enrolling us in ski school — it’d be the equivalent of like, me trying to take my imaginary family of four on a buck hunting trip solo.

I’m eternally grateful to my parents for endeavoring to do this, because I lack both the patience and the athleticism to be one of those people who casually learned to ski as an adult. When the above photo resurfaced a few years ago, my friends were astonished, because 30-some years later, I’m a squarely intermediate skier.

In fact, I’ve regressed over the years: While I could at one point ski blacks pretty fearlessly, these days I’m cruising blue groomers and the occasional accidental mogul run. I might only do three laps before rewarding myself with a long and lazy, Veuve-soaked fondue lunch.

Still, I love to partake in mountain style. Like tropical vacay or holiday party outfits, I think of ski clothing as occasion wear: It’s fun to wear something fun. Clomping up to the gondola line in a Perfect Moment onesie is likely to elicit an eye-roll or two from “locals” and “advanced skiers.” But as long as my outfit gets the job done functionally, I give zero shits if a Reddit bro in his (peacocky in its own way, I might add) Arcteryx / Melanzana getup is passing judgment on my sportwear choices. My friend who rocks a Cordova suit says, “I ski better when I feel sexy,” and to that I say: add to cart.

Ski wear is expensive, and a varied selection is not particularly accessible in person unless you live in the mountains. So I always appreciate trusted recs from my skier friends, because who wants to put four $1000 jackets on your Sapphire at once?Below, I’m sharing the wisdom of the group chat with you in the name of saving us all a few FedEx drop-offs.

In summary: This advice is for the girls who are panic perusing Lisa Yang on SSENSE for fear of Canadian tariffs, not for the ones reading OutdoorGearLab.com reviews. If you’re a technical skier who wants the best gear for skinning up a mountain, feel free to exit browser. But if you’re planning a friend trip to Jackson and want to feel cute when sipping shotskis with your squad between runs, I got you.

Thermals or base layers: Ideally, you’ll want 100% merino wool base layers, which provide warmth and wick sweat. My favorite wool base layers are from European knitwear company We Norwegians. If it’s warm out, I may go synthetic, in which case the world is your oyster. Halfdays, Sweaty Betty, and Cordova ribbed set also make some cute patterns and colorful sets. In a pinch, anything that sits close to the skin — think a SKIMS mockneck top and your trusty Lululemon Aligns — does the job just fine.

Mid-layers or ski Sweaters: I rotate between a ribbed sweater and a houndstooth sweater over my base layer top, though if the sun’s sunning, I’ll forgo a sweater altogether. French skiwear brand Fusalp is a favorite for chic, classy ski sweaters with subtle details that I love. While Perfect Moment has a reputation for being an influencer brand, I’ve been pleasantly surprised with the quality and warmth of their 100% wool statement sweaters. Alanui also makes gorg (though $$$) fair isle sweaters I’ve been Vestiaire-stalking.

More insulation: If it’s absolutely frigid out (and it has been this year — I’m writing you with the heat cranked, wrapped in a mohair blanket wearing a cashmere sweater under a cashmere sweater), it’s worth packing yet another layer for extra warmth — a low-profile down vest like this or a thin fleece is best to avoid bulk under your outerwear.

Ski bibs: In spite of the 27 seconds it adds to your time at the toilet, I prefer a bib over pants. Everything just tucks in nicely in a more flattering way. These are my go-to salopettes (French for “overalls,” my fancy friends) — which are definitely not the warmest, but do make you look snatched — a rare quality in ski clothing. My friend Gen, a Vail regular, had high praise for Goldbergh’s other bib style, and my friend Vera, who gets ~10 days in the Rockies annually despite living in NY/Miami, always looks so chic in this houndstooth bib. To smooth things out under a bib, some prefer a bodysuit-style base layer like this or this.

Ski pants: On chilly days, I’ll wear these pants which have a little bit more room for layers (if it’s -0°F, I consider a pair of fleece leggings to be mandatory). A few friends also vouch for these flare pants, which are super flattering — I have my eye on them next. I prefer my ski bottom to be slim-fit and flared to avoid looking completely like a Michelin man.

Jackets: When on the mountain, the jacket is the outfit — usually for 2-3 days in a row. Once you’ve committed to being a skier, I recommend buying something that you love. I look for something that’s either belted or nips in at the waist to give you a little shape, and personally like something that has insulation. My non-negotiable features for a ski jacket are:

• thumb holes: keeps everything warmer even when your hands are out of your mittens

• pass pocket: most resorts these days will have you scan your resort pass when going through electronic gates — it’s much more handy to be able to scan through a pocket on your arm

• inner pocket: I like to bring lip balm, sunscreen, sunglasses, etc. on the mountain, so it’s really nice to have an inner jacket pocket to tuck these things away in

• hood: that’s big enough to fit over helmet

After wearing the same jacket for the last seven years, this year I finally splurged on this one, which has absolutely elevated my ability to maneuver advanced terrain, in case my husband is reading and wondering. Some really good options… Perfect Moment polar flare and Cordova’s Meribel styles are favorites among my girlfriends. I made a new friend in a Telluride lift line a few weeks ago and clocked her cute forest-green set from Colorado-based, Olympian-founded brand Halfdays. I’m also intrigued by Jorde, which offers fairly priced matching jacket and pants combos.

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Ski socks: Counterintuitively, you’ll want a thinner (100% wool) sock to keep the circulation in your toes. Smartwool has wormed its way into the racks of all the outdoor shop and gear rental spot on every mountain, and therefore makes the go-to ski sock of nearly every skier I know. I haven’t tried any other brand’s ski socks personally because I don’t care to fix what’s not broke, but if Smartwool doesn’t do it for you, Bombas, Falke, and Comme Si have come out with their own ski socks in recent years, too.

Gloves and mittens: I prefer mittens because thick-fingered gloves make me feel like I have hot dog hands. Practically speaking, mittens also preserve the warmth between my fingers better. I have these, which come with a convenient little pocket for handwarmers… toasty! They also have a strap you can loop around your wrists, which is a feature I didn’t know I needed, but would never buy without again. If you’re investing, also a big fan of this leather style.

Neck warmer or balaclava: Neckwarmers are a must — I hate to ski without one even if it’s not that cold, because the wind will chap your face if it’s not covered, leaving you blotchy for the rest of the day. My fave is this cozy fleecy one. This Buff neck warmer is a little bit thinner if you run hot. Tbh, I don’t love wearing a balaclava because the hair situation under my helmet becomes entirely unmanageable, but we skied Telluride in -10°F in January, and that temperature truly necessitates full-head coverage.

Goggles: Aesthetically, I like a black or mirrored spherical lens, which I find to be the most flattering and also the most practical. I upgraded to these goggles this past year and have loved the wider field of vision. A few other tried and true options: Oakley, Dragon, and Vuarnet. There are plenty of ~fashun~ goggles on the market — gorg options from Tom Ford, Goldbergh, Celine, Fusalp — but I’d only get one of these as a secondary pair. For a primary pair, you really want goggles that come with two sets of lenses: a high-light lens for sunny days and a low-light lens for cloudy/snowy days. Not being able to see the snow well can truly impact your safety and therefore, the quality of your ski day.

Helmet: Whenever possible, helmets and goggles are really better trialed in person so you can compare many at once. Try your goggles with your helmet to ensure that the fit is complementary — you don’t want a huge gap on your forehead letting cold air in.

• shares what to wear for Aspen vibes all winter long.

• ’s has all the best advice in this exhaustive guide to ski wear.

• You’ll love a newish newsletter that recently popped up in my feed — , by fellow Colorado resident . She writes about slope style, shares guides to resort towns, and covers everything else ski-related with a cool-girl lens.

Slopeside

Slopeside is your winter dispatch covering mountain news, winter trends, high-quality skiwear, and tips for winter recreationalists.

By Chloe Harlig

A ski trip with a few of my New York girlfriends (husbands in tow!) is one of my favorite friend traditions that we’ve carved out in recent years. I was on cloud nine in Aspen last weekend — standing at the top of the run on a blue bird day, watching from above as each of my friends cruised off into the valley below.

Anyhoo, I’ve decided that a group ski…

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Wandering the ancient medina, falling asleep to a desert storm, hiking through waterfalls, luxuriating at riads… Morocco was unlike anywhere else that we’ve been. The whole country was a delight for the senses. It was city break, adventure, and wellness all in one.

Typically, I roll pretty loosey-goosey in my travel planning — my philosophy is never to try to squeeze it ALL in. That you can always come back. But, when it came to Morocco, I felt a little more pressure to nail the itinerary: It’s a long trip (from Denver, it required a one-night layover in London before landing in Fes), and unlike say, Japan or Italy, it’s not really a destination we expected to revisit in the next decade. It ended up being one of our favorite trips — between the design inspiration around every corner, the diversity of activities, and the convergence of ancient and modern.

I don’t often feel compelled to share our exact itineraries because your travel style probably varies. But starting from scratch on Morocco planning felt a little daunting, and a skeleton itinerary from someone whose taste I trust would have been tremendously helpful in my own planning. So below, I’ve detailed the full itinerary for our nine-day stay in Morocco, including:

• How many nights I recommend spending where

• Our accommodations in all four spots… among them, a beautifully designed, reasonably priced property that I absolutely loved

• Was the desert trip worth it? — and tips on how to do it right

• The one luxurious spa you need to do a hammam at

How we decided on our itinerary

I briefly considered hiring a planner (mostly due to my own false preconceptions about Morocco travel being difficult). But like many “tricky” destinations — Japan comes to mind — once I started digging in, a clear idea started to emerge.

Many TA-planned trips assume you will go through Casablanca (CMN) because it’s the main hub of Morocco — most international flights come in through Casablanca. That said, we knew we didn’t really want to spend time there, so we opted to figure out a plan where we wouldn’t “waste” a day in Morocco. 

Our itinerary was also somewhat dictated by flight availability. We wanted to fly in and out of Fes and/or Marrakech, and we didn’t want to spend two entire days in a car, which is the default option for heading to the desert. We ended up doing: 

• 3 nights Fes

• 2 nights desert 

• 2 nights Marrakech

• 1 night Atlas mountains

If we had had more flexibility with flights, I think my ideal itinerary would be: 

• 2 nights Fes — I don’t think 3 is necessary

• 2 nights desert — most itineraries suggest 1 night in the desert, but it’s such a long journey and a special experience that I think 2 is worthwhile (unless you’re doing real desert camping… I don’t know if I’d opt to stay longer if I didn’t have AC and running water!)

• 2 nights Atlas mountains — I would have loved to spend more time in nature

• 3 nights Marrakech — there’s so much to see, do, and shop for in Marrakech! I felt like we barely scratched the surface

All of our domestic flights were via RyanAir, which between the clapping and the nonstop chatter is a funny cultural experience in itself.

Here I’ll remind you that our travel style is pretty loose. It’s usually less of an hour-by-hour plan, and more like one anchor activity and one meal reservation a day. We are not rigorously scheduled travelers and keep things flexible to slot in local recommendations, on-the-fly discoveries, jetlag naps, marital disputes, etc.

Day 1: Arriving to Fes and a tour of the medina

We arrived to Fes, often referred to as the country’s cultural capital, after an early morning flight from London, and were picked up by the hotel driver (this seemed to be a common service offered by high-end riads). After sipping some hot mint tea — offered EVERYWHERE, btw — and checking into Karawan Riad, I met our private guide for a four-hour walking tour. (Mike took a nap. He’s fired.)

On the medina tour, we visited Bab Bou Jeloud, the iconic glue gate that marks the entrance to the old medina, Chouara Tannery, where you learn about the traditional method of tanning leather and Al Quaraouiyine Mosque and University — one of the oldest universities in the world, founded by a female engineer in 859 AD. We also wandered through the local souks, where I was awed by all the handicrafts, textiles, and spices.

Though the tannery shop was really touristy, I did pick up a suede jacket that was of beautiful quality for probably too much money. Because we booked our private guide through a top hotel in Fes, I had assumed it wouldn’t be scammy, but, unfortunately he did drop us off at a few textile stops that were clearly designed around generating commission, which I was told can be up to 50% of the price you pay. (How’s that for affiliate revenue?) 

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Last weekend, we headed back to NorCal for the wedding of one of my oldest friends. I loved catching up with my friend’s parents (who have known me since I was the tiniest of tots), filling in the blanks of the last 20 years with David who sat behind me in Saturday Chinese school, and reminiscing with my college roommates about all the shenanigans we go…

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It feels like all my girlfriends are in the thick of heavy corporate travel / getting that Q4 pipeline. Is this you, too? I hadn’t been to a conference in awhile, and it took me a minute to figure out what to pack for this three-day trip. I thought I’d share my work trip essentials with you…

1. The jacket that is the outfit

This two-year-old BA&SH jacket has been one of my best workwear buys of all time. The texture and gold buttons add instant polish to any look. I’ll pair it with jeans, with white trousers, or with my satin pants below. It’s also kind of an instant dinner outfit when I can’t figure out what to wear. 10/10, very versatile. The black is timeless, but I’m kind of into this new navy colorway. A monochrome look with navy trousers would be so good.

2. Slightly oversized, throw-it-around blazer

I love an investment blazer that makes you feel like a million bucks, but I also love a chill blazer you don’t have to be too precious with. The amount of wear I’ve gotten out of this basic black blazer is wild. The $69 price point means I don’t feel bad about crushing it in an overhead bin or if it smells a little bit like an ashtray after I’ve trekked through the casino floor. Total workhorse topper. It is mostly polyester, so there’s that. But I’ve tried the Anine Bing and it didn’t sway me (not at that price point, anyway!). I also love this Frankie Shop option that my friend has.

3. Work heels I’d also wear to girls’ night

I’d been eyeing these patent slingback heels but didn’t feel like they were truly a need until this trip popped up and I was lacking work appropo closed-toe heels. I wore them for several hours to an event on Tuesday night and was pleasantly surprised by their comfort level. I love that these will be super wearable for girls’ dinners, date nights, and holiday parties, too.

They’re TTS for me and fit my wider foot. If you’re waiting for them to go on sale, know that they’re always excluded from promo codes. I’ve been trying!

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4. Flats you can hit the expo floor in

I originally saw these ballet flats on and have gotten miles and miles out of them since I bought them last fall. Unlike most ballet flats that are designed to mimic, well, actual ballet slippers, these have a substantial cushion that make them very walkable. Are there more “on-trend” ballet flats out there? Probably yes. Do Le Monde Beryls have enough arch support to carry you through 20,000-step days, powered only by branded cappuccinos? Definitely no.

After an evening of standing around in our heels yesterday, my friend joked that she was about to walk back to her room barefoot. We are the same size, so I pulled my ballet flats out that I’d sandwiched into my bag in case of end-of-night blisters (I was still going strong in my Larroudes). She said they felt like literal clouds. What are friends for, if not saving you from the possibility of your CEO seeing you walk barefoot through the Venetian?

5. Lobby loungewear

My strategy for passing through the lobby is to throw on a baseball cap and look unrecognizably haggard so that no one approaches me. But sometimes I get real nervous about the unavoidable run-in with someone I know on a Starbucks run downstairs. Enter flare leggings, which feel slightly more pants-like than a skinny legging and take me momentarily from bridge troll to elegant horse. Throw on a blazer that covers your butt — good to go, at least for the five minutes you spend making small talk in line for spinach egg wraps.

This is my first Splits59 purchase and won’t be my last! The 30” inseam version are better if you’re 5’ 5” and under, or go with the 32” if you’re taller. I sized up to an M.

6. When the moment calls for hard pants

These days I primarily opt for soft pants for day-to-day, but in a professional setting, I’ll break out the… *shudder* hard pants. The Khaite Danielle jeans in a dark wash are the nicest profesh-looking denim I’ve found. I cannot personally stomach $500 for denim, but I do recommend them if you find a deal — I got them on major Moda sale because sometimes I’m a lucky bish. Another sleek alternative I’m liking right now are the Agolde Rens in black, which are less rigid and slightly more wide legged. The shorter length means I can wear them with both the aforementioned heels and flats.

I wear 26 in most Agolde, but ended up swapping the Rens for a 27 because it’s almost winter and I know things about myself. I would pass if you’re tallish — think they’d be too cropped.

7. Wrinkle-free, chic satin bottoms

I hate to be the bearer of this news, but these satin pants are everything. They’re probably my favorite thing that I brought to Vegas. They cost a pretty penny for pants that aren’t even silk, but they are really, really good.

If you’re 5-7 minutes late to everything and find yourself desperately trying to shower steam your clothing before any event like I do, then you know what a godsend a true wrinkle-free wardrobe item is. They’re dressy enough for a work dinner or date night, but relaxed enough you could wear over to a friend’s house. The elastic waistband also makes them the kind of pants you could go to Carbone in (zero percent chance you’ll ever spot me at an Italian restaurant looking like this). They only recently came back in the cream/bona color after I stalked them alongside and for a full year.

I’m usually a size 26 and got an S but wish I’d gotten an XS. With heels, they’re a great length for me at 5’ 5” but too long for flats — I plan to hem a bit to be able to wear with both. Vince has a first-time 15% off code.

8. The event MVP: a hands-free phone strap

Whether or not I’d originally intended for it to be my look, this rhodium ball-chain strap was attached to my body for 72 hours straight. The price for a simple phone strap makes me a little twitchy, but the quality is admittedly solid. I’ve looked at the Ossa founder’s LinkedIn once or twice wishing I’d thought of her product first. You do need to get the case separately. It’s also been equally useful at an SEC football game and an Above & Beyond show (I contain multitudes).

I stuck this little guy on the back of my phone to hold the two cards I needed and felt all gen Z living my best, wallet-free life. Our entire table got carded at brunch the other day and it’s probably because I looked very cool and gen Z, not because five of my Asian friends were in town.

9. Desert island moisturizer

As a 10-step Korean skincare addict in recovery, I’m now a total skincare minimalist. But if there’s one thing I’m packing to keep my skin hydrated in the desert after one too many startup happy hours, it’s Triple Lipid Restore. I haven’t found anything that’s more moisturizing and plumping for my combo skin, including Augustinus Bader. You can probably wait for a Black Friday deal for shopping your Skinceuticals.

10. Glow-faking foundation

This foundation is my decade-old holy grail for faking a smooth and glowy complexion in front of work people who don’t need to know what my real face looks like without Zoom facetune. Needless to say, I will be restocking during the Sephora sale this week.

What are your must-pack conference essentials? Let us know your fave workwear recs and corporate girl accessories in the comments.

Writing you from my homely little abode, where I’ve been contemplating our Simply White walls while scheming about painting my house in terracotta hues, filling it with potted palms, and tiling every visible surface…

While I won’t actually get swept up in redesigning my entire home, I did *take notes* on the alluring interiors — and exteriors! — of Morocco. Today, I’m talking about seven details I loved and the design lessons I’m taking home with me:

1. Open courtyards.

Courtyards, ya’ll. I’ve decided we need more of them. In Marrakech, we’d be hustling through shadowy alleyways of a chaotic medina and then step past some huge, carved cedar doors to find tranquility. Lightness. Relief. Inside traditional Moroccan riads, there’d be an open courtyard — swathed in intricately patterned tile, alive with greenery, with a little fountain bubbling at its center. Loved.

2. Water features.

Traditionally, a riad features an interior symmetrical garden centered around a water fountain. A vestigial symbol of the wealthy (one, it meant you could afford an interior garden, and two, you could afford running water in your home), today, its delicate trickle adds a soothing ambiance and musicality. Even in the private riad we stayed in, there was a small fountain in our tiny entryway courtyard.

Tbh, we removed the water feature from our back patio when we remodeled, and now I can’t help but think we made a grave mistake…

3. Stunning outdoor tile.

While we often consider our kitchen and bath tile choices with care, I think we’re prone to overlooking the ways outdoor tile can bring artfulness into our outdoor spaces. Our riad even had a rooftop plunge pool with the most beautiful zellige tile — what pool dreams are made of!

4. Indoor-ish furniture outside.

The courtyard of our Marrakech hotel was downright opulent: caned furniture, silk pillows, leather ottomans, colorful rugs, and potted palms under the open sky. By bringing furniture that looked like it belonged indoors outside, the outdoor space felt both luxe and livable.

Of course, the day there was a torrential downpour, the staff had to move the entire living setup inside — something that I’d have neither the space or manpower to do. But it’s a good thought starter on how to make outdoor spaces feel much more inviting.

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5. Heavy candlelight.

At both Le Grand Cafe de La Poste and Sahbi Sahbi in Marrakech, a table for two might have three glass candles on it — bathing their dining rooms with cozy, flickering light. Inside the riads we stayed at, oversize lanterns holding pillar candles lined the walkways.

6. Sculptural potted plants.

Potted plants were everywhere — inside coffee shops, adorning courtyards, even dotting the rooftop of our riad. I haven’t necessarily been drawn to palm trees historically, but that’s likely a byproduct of being influenced by what the algorithm has served me in recent years. After a few days of being assaulted by palm trees — color me convinced that I need these frondy beauties in my life.

(Something that remains a mystery to me is how restaurants with so little sunlight appear to be cultivating indoor jungles. When we dined at the cavernous Chinese Tuxedo in Manhattan last month, which had the lushest of greenery inside, I wondered — are they moving plants outside and back inside each day?! I need deets.)

7. Thoughtfully considered ceilings.

Something I didn’t even pick up on until when I was scrolling my photos on the flight back was how design almost always extended to all four walls. From the beams above to geometric tile to intricate wood carvings, ceilings were rarely an afterthought. (Flat white paint? They would never.)

3 design lessons I’m taking home with me

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This week, I’m featuring the talented (pronounced like “so”) — a photographer whose images have been published in the likes of Conde Nast Traveler and Bon Appetit. Whether on her IG or in her online print shop, Laura’s always sharing the dreamiest snaps of her frequent solo travels to far-flung destinations, from the Ligurian coast to colorful Cartagena.

A first generation Cambodian American and a Charleston resident, Laura also writes the newsletter I'M JUST A GIRL... on everything from her Khmer family dinner to recent style finds to lessons from a small business owner.

I'M JUST A GIRL...

... living in Charleston, SC as a freelance photographer, solo traveling the world, and looking for my person along the way. A girl who loves hosting, fashion, skincare, and food and will always link the outfit for you.

By Laura Saur

Determined to dust off my mirrorless camera for Morocco, I turned to Laura for advice so that I might come home with more than a camera roll full of blurry tagine pics. True to form, Laura was in the midst of a Lake Como trip (girlfriend made summering in Italy look real good). Despite having linguine to eat and spritzes to drink, she made time to share her expert tips for better vacation pics with us. Hope you enjoy!

Tell us… how do you scout out the best spots or best lighting to shoot in?

Walk open streets that have buildings going East to West — that way you have many lighting options to choose from and play with like direct lighting, back lighting, or side lighting for fun shadow play.

Lighting in the early morning is bright and cooler in temperature, midday lighting is warm, directly overhead and can be too harsh if you don’t know how to work with it, lastly late afternoon to golden hour is warm, even lighting. My personal favorite is warm evening light because it’s flattering for skin tones but also because I’m not a morning person. Haha.

Tip: If you’re using an iPhone to take photos of people, have the sun directly on them or to the side. Do not put the sun behind them — the iPhone camera isn’t great at handling backlighting as well as fancier cameras.

What kind of camera do you recommend for a non-professional photographer?

Get a light, small point-and-shoot like the Canon G7x Mark II or Mark III. If you want to use a DSLR or mirrorless camera, my favorite lens is a 35mm f/1.2. It’s a sweet spot lens that allows you to take both portraits and landscape photos.

I’ve also realized that I’m horrible at posing! What advice do you have for both posing your subjects and posing yourself? For framing a subject?

Use pockets when possible. Bend your elbows so there is a little space between your upper arms and body, shoulders down and back, lean a little more on your right or left side (whichever you prefer) so that the opposite leg is a little more extended. Have the photographer position you further to the left or to the right of the screen so you give the viewer some context (if you want) as to where your picture is being taken. AKA leave room in the frame to tell the story.

For an outfit photo, have the photographer compose your feet closer to the bottom of the frame in the camera vs putting you smack dab in the middle of the entire picture.

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What bag do you typically carry your camera in? And what are your day-to-day essentials?

When I travel, I take my Fjällräven Kånkan backpack or my Longchamp backpack. Both are super easy to flatten or fold and carry in my checked luggage.

When I go out for the day, I pack a water bottle, my camera, extra camera battery, a lens cloth, external phone charger, phone, electrolytes, and a sunhat because it’s hard for me to spot or photograph a moment in it’s purest form when I have sunglasses on. I feel like sunglasses obstruct my view of taking in my surroundings in their true colors so I like to photograph from under a nice little sunhat!

What are some of your travel rituals?

1. I always pre-download podcast episodes, audiobooks, meditation music, classical music or high frequency playlists before flying.

2. I send my itinerary to a family member and a close friend so they know where I’m supposed to be and when.

3. I am big on pre-flight health so I make sure to do a Neil Med sinus rinse the night before flying. I bring chlorophyll drops, LMNT electrolytes to put into my water. Bone broth packets for during the flight (all you need to do is ask the flight attendant for a cup of hot water).

4. Compression socks, always!

5. I pre-purchase and pre-install an eSIM card using the AirAlo app. I recommend installing it at home before you travel while you’re on a stable WiFi connection. Screenshot the installation instructions and have them pulled up on your laptop or iPad so you can follow them to a T while installing the eSIM on your phone.

Thank you, Laura! Love seeing life through your lens. (And mid-flight bone broth? Genius.)

For more, browse Laura’s gorgeous travel photography in her online print shop, or follow her at @lcs_studio.

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Images courtesy of LCS Studio.

Bonjour, mes amis! If you thought today was the day I finally closed the door on the Olympics, you were mistaken.

Following the pandemicky experience that was watching Tokyo’s desolate Games from afar, the collective effervescence surrounding Paris felt wonderful. Contagious. Life affirming. After fist-pumping at the TV a few times a day for the last two weeks, I was like, “Wait… do I need to go to the Olympics at least once in my life?”

Enter my friend Kerry, a former teammate at Google, who was sharing all the IG stories from the Paris Games last week. After repeatedly sliding into her DMs to profess how much I loved her life, I asked if she'd spill the deets with us on what it was like to go. See? Always looking out for you, dear readers.

Kerry is both very well traveled (need recs for an obscure destination? she’s your girl) and has been a part of some very high profile, logistically impressive gatherings (see: Davos, Cannes). So I was especially curious to hear her on-the-ground observations of the highly anticipated Paris Games.

Below, she shares a day in the life of an Olympic-goer, a handful of Paris recs, and all the advice for those of us setting our sights on seeing Simone’s 2028 comeback…

Tell us! What was a typical day at the Olympics like? 

Luckily, all of us had been to Paris before, which took a lot of pressure off of seeing all the sights. Days were really focused on sports, so we usually did something during the day, either a late lunch or early dinner, then went to an event. We went to 15 events, not including the opening ceremony, so we tried to balance downtime, good food, sports, and champagne, of course. 

We happened to have tickets to almost all medal events, which was insane and awesome, so the energy was always incredible. What surprised me most was how this felt like much more of a celebration than a competition. Everyone cheered for everyone, and overall it was really positive and fun.

We tried to average one sport a day, which was a good amount for me. One day we did two events and we were all pretty exhausted by night. From emotions, to commute times, and being outside, it felt like a lot to do two in a day.

We did take two day trips outside of the city, one to Épernay for champagne tasting, and the other to Monet’s Gardens in Giverny. I would highly recommend both!

So… how does one actually go to the Olympics? How do you get tickets to different events? 

This was my first time trying to get tickets, so I’m not sure how standard this process is. We entered the ticket lottery in fall of 2022 and found out we got in around March 2023. The lottery really is just the opportunity to buy tickets—to be clear, you don’t win tickets in the lottery. 

Ticket prices ran the gamut, depending on the event and availability. They were basically in tiered categories A, B, C, and sometimes D, with A being the most expensive. Early rounds of beach volleyball, for example, were around €40 per ticket, and something like women’s gymnastics finals were closer to €700.

I was given a 48-hour purchase window, so at 5 a.m. PT, I logged in and started the process. Information at that time was sparse, at best, so there were a few hiccups. Like the cart emptied after 30 minutes, so everything we thought we had, we lost, then had to find again. 

There is also a ticket resale that opened spring / early summer 2024, and if you had tickets you wanted to add or get rid of, you could buy / sell there. They didn’t allow for markup pricing, which is really nice. We decided while at the Games to sell our last day of track & field and snagged tickets to the gold medal soccer match (go USA!!!).

How far did you have to plan ahead for restaurants and hotels? 

Restaurants were a bit hit or miss—a lot of Paris is normally quiet in August, so we had a few issues finding places that were open. That said, many places that usually close midday stayed open, knowing people would be eating at somewhat off hours to accommodate sports. We made a few reservations at places we knew would be tricky, but for the most part, it was pretty easy to maneuver great restaurants. 

Some of our favorites were Le Sauvage, Fontaine de Mars, and Le Jardin Saint-Germain. We went to Rue du Nil one night, which is a really cute little street where chef Greg Marchand has a handful of restaurants. We went to Frenchie Bar a Vins and basically ate everything on the menu. I have no regrets. 

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Lake life is all about easy, casual, unfussy. In the spirit of buying clothes for the lives we have, I un-hearted all the sculptural tops and silk pants I had in my NAP favorites. Instead, I’ve been building my wardrobe of everyday, wearable pieces for lake life: cozy knits, easy button-downs, comfy loungewear.

With Denver temps climbing to 100 degrees on the regular, we’ve been escaping the city for balmy mountain weather more than ever this summer. Below, sharing the pieces that have been on repeat in my weekend bag for some lake packing inspiration. (Though all you really need to have a good time? Sunnies, sunscreen, a swimsuit, and a speaker* in a trusty L.L.Bean tote*.)

Morning on the dock

Eating: Nothing. It’s coffee only before 10.
Drinking: Coffee, black, from freshly ground Verve beans.

• Red cap: We’re reclaiming red caps. (This one’s actually sold out atm but keeping an eye out for a restock.)

• Sweater*: The Marin* is a classic, or treat yourself to Lisa Yang on sale*. Also love this Jcrew cotton sweater* recommended by reader Jacquie.

• Enamel mug: Studies show that coffee tastes better when drank out of a cute mug. This one from Toast would be my cabincore pick.

• Phone strap: So your phone doesn’t slip into the water when you’re gramming that lake view…

• Gingham shorts: All about this Doeny vibe for less.

• Sandals*: Cost per wear for my Havaianas must be pennies at this point.

• Tray: A popup table for your coffee and paperback—how delightful!

I’m on a boat

Eating: Turkey sandwiches, Lays, a juicy Palisade peach.
Drinking: Ghia over a handful of cooler ice with a slice of whatever citrus is on board. This canned NA spritz has become my daytime go-to. Disclosure: They sent me some to sample, and I’ve since ordered a 12-pack twice more.

• Ball cap: In my favorite shade of green.

• Striped sweater*: Thrown over your shoulders on top of an easy tank.

• Boxer shorts: Love the Comme Si, or another similar option.

• Raffia bag*: Big enough for just the essentials (phone, sunscreen, dog treats).

• Sandals*: Slip-on slip-off perfection for boat days.

Dinner on deck

Eating: Grilled thick-cut sourdough brushed with olive oil. Tomato corn salad. Local ribeye steaks with Maldon flake salt. Strawberries and homemade whipped cream.
Drinking: Rose, duh. I brought you Flowers!

• Bucket hat*: Sun protection until the sun goes down.

• Button-down*: I saw wearing a blue F&E button-down, so I bought a blue F&E button-down. (Size down—they’re very oversized.)

• Pointelle pants*: Q: Are these indoor pants or outdoor pants? A: They’re cozy AF and it doesn’t matter at the lake.

• Enamel splatter bowl*: That salad is going to look so good in this.

• Hurricane*: Because of course we need candles. We’re not savages.

Fireside chat

Eating: S’mores with burnt marshmallows and dark chocolate only.
Drinking: Japanese whiskey on the rocks in a Dorothy Thorpe glass.

• Roasting forks*: For s’mores today and hot dogs tomorrow.

• Plaid blanket*: Discovered this German textile brand while searching for washable Chappywrap-quality blankets with a more restrained color palette. Tested on the 55 degree boat ride home from fireworks—10/10.

• Pointelle tee*: The other half to the aforementioned Donni pants. Wear together or with other loungey separates. (Catch me sneaking peeks at ’s IG stories for all the Donni styling inspo.)

• Cashmere pants*: So nice I want to buy them twice.

• Aspen candle: Notes of cedarwood, pine, and leather for an evening in by the fire.

• Shearling slippers*: Only a few sizes of my favorites left, but these are similar.

What’s your version of escaping the city? Do you have plans for a low-key trip upstate, lake getaway, or weekend in the mountains? What comfy-casual pieces have been in heavy rotation for you this season?

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In Sea Ranch, your outdoor lights must be shaded. Cars have to be parked behind a fence or otherwise “adequately screened from neighboring property.” Visible landscaping can only include native species from the approved plant list. Your house must be built in a prescribed architectural style—and stained only in one of seventeen pre-approved finishes. A design committee reviews all new construction. 

The result is a place where the homes blend into the land, there’s no light pollution, and all the signs are in Helvetica. It’s an entire community that *claps with delight* adheres to the brand guidelines. 

I knew little about Sea Ranch and its history before my recent visit. My friends Brian and Jean threw out an invitation to join them at their vacation home up the coast of California, about a three-hour drive from San Francisco.

Hours later, my mother and I loaded our overnight bags into her 2000s Lexus sedan. Configuring her never-used Bluetooth while driving seemed insurmountable, so we listened to her lone ABBA CD after FM radio cut out. The quieting of choices felt like an appropriate metaphor.

When you zip around the curvy Sea Ranch roads, it’s all sparsely set wood-clad, slanted-roof buildings set in sprawling meadows, with cypress trees and ocean bluffs as far as the eye can see. There’s a palpable peacefulness and a profound sense of place. I marveled aloud, “This place is a brand person’s DREAM! A designer haven! An architectural delight!” and peppered my friends with questions. “Just how did it become this way? How did they achieve these curated minimalist vibes?”

Sea Ranch wasn’t just born by accident or whimsy; it turns out there’s a design manual for the community, because of course there is. Dreamed up by a group of architects and designers in the 1960s, the coastal development was a highly deliberate endeavor, grounded in the the principles of good design, economy of space, and harmony with nature.

You know when you’re in a hotel room and there are no cords or fuggo devices or blinking neon lights coming out of HVAC control panels in your line of sight? For a 10-mile stretch of the coast, it’s like someone took tender care to do away with all of that visual clutter. Nervous system, settled.

The commitment to Helvetica throughout Sea Ranch was delightful—a considered choice of Barbara Stauffacher Solomon, who was behind the signature iconography you’ll find everywhere. Her bold “super-graphics” brought colorful contrast to the otherwise restrained palette. Everywhere I went, carefully considered design:

Having been The Brand Police in many a past marketing job—both by assignment and also by I Just Can’t Help Who I Am—I found myself feeling very much like I was among my people. People who I imagined were likeminded, design-loving souls, willing to sacrifice some personal freedoms and aesthetic choices for the greater good.

I’d venture to guess that the average American shudders at the idea of an HOA, associating them with cookie-cutter suburban developments named things like Pacific Creek and Gardenia Bay. But sometimes I think we could stand to eschew our individuality for a bit more community spirit.

In Monaco and Nice, facades and shutters must be painted a shade from the preapproved color guide. In Cinque Terre, everything is painted in one of the designated "Ligurian pastels," as regulated by an official commissioner of good taste. I struggle to think of places in the US that exude a similar charm…

Aesthetics aside, the communal spirit of Sea Ranch living left its mark on me. Yes, there were plenty of rules (and prickly neighbor enforcers of rules) that I’m sure would be annoying as a resident. Like—let me plant hydrangeas in my front yard if I want to, damn it.

But in the face of our very North American loneliness, maybe collectively curating our shared physical spaces is exactly what we need to create more belonging. Maybe opting in to community above self could be the balm for our feelings of isolation. What do you think?

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P.S. if you liked this letter, I’m told that clicking the heart button helps it get seen by more readers. (Or leaving a comment! I live for a comment.) I know—I’m a slave to the algorithm. And if you’re inspired to visit, why not forward to a design-loving friend? THANK YOU. 🤎

More places to inspire

I had the most restorative time in California last week. After my calendar opened up last minute, I decided to book that trip back to NorCal that I’ve been putting off forever, sandwiching a visit to my mom with some quality time with girlfriends.

I stayed with my friend Adrienne at her apartment in the Castro. It’s one of those San Francisco homes that’s full of character—original moulding, heavy doors with ornate hardware, natural light flooding in through bay windows.

We kicked off the weekend with a glass of natural wine at Bar Gemini SF, right around the corner from Heath and Tartine Manufactory, slipping into a corner booth without a reservation.

On Friday, I hoofed it to Neighbor’s Corner for a morning cortado and to make final edits on my last letter. Breathless on my way up a hill I should have anticipated, I texted Adrienne that Google Maps ought to come with an incline warning. (Apparently it does.)

Amy scooped us in her SUV shortly after, and we cruised up to Sonoma for a noon tasting at Scribe. Stepping onto the property feels like happening upon a European garden villa: gray-washed teak tables, mismatched terracotta planters spilling over with flowers, birds and bees humming about.

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It’s the age-old question… what chic and comfy sneakers should I pack for my next trip abroad? You’re trying to be one of those people who does carry-on only but you also want to look cute, because France. You need sneakers versatile enough to work with multiple outfits, but you’re also not sacrificing your feet if you find yourself clocking 17,382 cobblestoned steps in one day.

I asked a handful of my favorite Substack writers where they’re headed or dreaming of a trip to next—and which pair of trainers would come with. From bright and bold to neutral classics, there’s something for everyone to love. Sharing their picks below!

Sarah Palmer’s pick: Adidas Sambas

“Whenever I’m traveling I always pack a pair of Sambas. I know, they seem to be incredibly overdone and everywhere, but they’ve been my ride or die sneaker since I worked at adidas 5 years ago. I have two pairs and will most likely add a third by the end of the year—I’m thinkin’ this burgundy color. I love to pair them shorts or trousers, but they work with skirts or dresses too. Funny enough, I’m currently in Paris and have them with me!”

—, stylist, creative director, and writer behind

Tori Simokov’s pick: Nike Waffle Debut Vintage

“I'm daydreaming about heading back to Japan, where I loved sporting my Nike Waffle Debut Vintage in the Stadium Green/Opti Yellow colorway. I tend to stick to a neutral color palette with my wardrobe, so this sleek sneaker was the perfect way to add a fun pop of color while staying super comfortable (bonus: you can usually find them under $100!).”

— of the design-focused travel newsletter,

Grace Atwood’s pick: Kizik Brisbanes

“I don't have any exciting summer travel plans but I am dreaming of frolicking across Europe, specifically Italy. I would pack my Kizik Brisbanes. Maybe not the most trendy option (I do love my Sambas and Onitsukas) but these sneakers are insanely comfortable and easily slip on and off without ever touching the laces. On top of that, they're like walking on a cloud. Perfect for long days of sightseeing... and the white easily pairs with dresses (add a ruffled sock to be on trend), denim, leggings, etc. I try to pack as light as possible so need something versatile!”

— of The Stripe and writer behind

Noora Raj Brown’s pick: Loewe brushed suede sneakers

“I'm admittedly not a sneaker girl. Ballet flats, a chunky boot, a barely there sandal is much more my vibe. But there's something about these brushed suede Loewe sneakers that kept percolating in my mind, so I finally gave in. This summer, I'm heading to Venice, where I plan to spend hours strolling the city in search of the best pizza. These sneakers are the perfect companion for that feat.”

—, EVP Brand at GOOP and author of

Camilla Nazeri’s pick: Adidas Handball

“My choice is Adidas Handball on grey with baby blue stripes and laces. I’m totally upset that everyone has jumped on the Handball aesthetic the last year as I’ve worn them for years! I love the gummy sole and classic, easy shape. They are SO comfortable I could walk 25 miles around Paris and not blister. They are my best kept secret that I’m loathed to share.”

—Camilla Nazeri, the London-based stylist behind

Guess who has a few unexpected pairs of sneaks in her cart? Thank you Noora, Camilla, Grace, Tori, and Sarah for sharing your faves with us.

If you liked this edit, let me know what else you’d love to see in the comments (linen pants? toiletry bags?)… here to serve!

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After every trip, I like to take stock of the little things that we can bring into our day-to-day living. Venice, for example, inspired me to drink all the Select spritzes. Paros got me into roasting chickpeas. And recent Mexico trips turned me onto passionfruit margaritas.

I usually compile a hodgepodge of observations in my Notes app as I go—thought it’d be fun to share them with you here! Below, seven things that influenced me from Japan:

1. Grating fresh wasabi.

   

   At the ryokan we stayed at in Kyushu, they brought out a fresh wasabi root and a little sharkskin grater with the sashimi course of our kaiseki dinner. How fun would this be to have for a Japanese dinner party? It turns out wasabi root is not cheap or super accessible, but for a special meal, my research tells me we, too, can get our own Oregon-grown wasabi off the internets here. Also, if you’ve never had wagyu with fresh wasabi and soy sauce—it’s tdf. (Has anyone seen wasabi at their local Asian market? Curious to know where, if so!)

2. Drinking out of tiny beer glasses.

   I don’t really drink beer, but the exception is Japanese beer with Japanese food—sometimes, a sip of cold Asahi hits just right in a way that no other bevvie will. At some of the higher end restaurants, beer is served in tiny, delicately thin 5-oz. glasses, presumably so you don’t end up with tepid beer halfway through your pint glass. I feel like it’s the difference between sipping Bordeaux out of a Zalto wine glass vs. that unbreakably thick drinking vessel you get at an airport Chili’s.

   For more travel inspo, get on the list:

3. Saying “itadakimasu” before your meal.

   Sort of like “bon appetit,” “itadakimasu” is said before every meal. You put your hands together, bow slightly, and say “itadakimasu” before picking up your chopsticks. It translates to “I humbly receive” and is a way of giving thanks to everyone involved in preparing your meal—from the chef to the farmer to the pig. Though I’m not religious, I have always appreciated the sentiment of saying grace before a meal. This feels like a secular version of that!

4. Growing bonsais.

   

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Our love affair with coastal Mexico began in Tulum a decade ago, and over the years we have wandered our way up and down both coasts: through Cabo, Cancun, Cozumel, Playa Del Carmen, Sayulita, Isla Holbox, Punta de Mita. 

San Pancho, a laidback beach town in the Riviera Nayarit, is our most recent infatuation. Things you will not find in this town include: heels, Rosa Negras (you know the ones), pretension, bottle service, and hotel rooms that cost $1,000. That’s not to say there’s not a time and place for those things, but this destination is not that.

You don’t come here to have someone refresh your towels by the resort pool—you’re here for Mexican charm and culture. It’s fresh caught red snapper slathered in local spices you’ve never tasted, it’s nightly beach walks with your gaggle of off-leash pups, it’s open-air yoga under a thatched roof and spiritual ceremonies in the forest. Imagine crystalline waters along a stretch of sandy beach—swathed with sunset colors. A place where travelers become locals or come back again and again.

You don’t have to book a thing in advance, except your hotel (and even that you could do last minute). It is the anti-Tulum, which these days, per , feels like travel devoid of soul. San Pancho is the kind of place where you lose track of time. (Quite literally, because your phone defaults to the wrong time zone).

On contributing to community economically and culturally in Mexico, I loved what Natalie Stoclet had to say here:

Here are six things I loved this trip:

01 Manebi raffia tote bag
I’d previously picked up a market tote in Madrid, but I found myself leaving it behind when traveling because its wide opening was just impractical. This Manebi bag was an ideal upgrade—I’d been mulling it over when I spotted it on stylist Heidi Streeter who is vacation style goals. On a beach vacation where I’m not packing and repacking and schlepping across cities, this bag works perfectly as my in-flight personal item. Of note, this little version is on sale and adorable, too.

02 Disposable film camera
I picked up a Kodak disposable camera from Amazon to take some analog snaps! Such a fun little toy, especially for a vacation with friends (and pups!). I can’t wait to develop these and put them a little photo book. 

03 ROUND A’ROUND Korean stick sunscreen
MrsDerm fans (and Asian people lol) know that Asian sunscreen technology is what’s up. My friend Jen introduced me to this stick sunscreen she picked up in Seoul, which glides on and makes on-the-go reapplication so easy. (The website looks sketch, but Reddit affirms that YesStyle is a reputable purveyor of Asian beauty products—or it could just be something to keep an eye out for on your next trip to Asia).

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04 Bobbi Brown lip tint
I went super low-key this trip, going bare-faced most days, aside from this lip tint before dinner—perfect for a swipe of light shine and color.

05 Passionfruit mezcalitas
You’ll find maracuya cocktails on nearly every menu here. As soon as patio season hits in Denver, I’m recreating this for backyard hangs with passionfruit, lime juice, mezcal, and a tiny bit of orange liqueur—I skip the agave. You can find this passionfruit in the Whole Foods/Target freezer.

06 San Pancho Spotify playlist
I love collaborating on playlists as a pre-trip ritual with friends. We brought this JBL waterproof speaker for pool time. All week long, we shazammed songs at beach bars and vibey restaurants, creating an audio keepsake of our time together:

San Pancho recommendations

Where to eat, stay, shop, and play

As we deboarded our sailboat on Friday evening, our captain said with a wink: “Tell your friends about us. But only the good ones.” Now on our third year back, we’ve collected a handful of favorite people and places that make our stays here so special.

To access the below, you’ll need a paid subscription. I like to think of paid subscribers as a community of « close friends » that I can trust personal recommendations and contacts with!

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Hi! We’re headed to our favorite place on earth during cherry blossom season (more from) in a few weeks, and among many other things, I can’t wait to shop. Shopping in Japan is a dizzying delight: More often than not, you’ll find quality craftsmanship, impeccable service, and thoughtfully designed retail experiences.

I’d started writing up a Tokyo shopping list for my girlfriend, and seeing as this newsletter is basically a series of emails to my internet gfs, I figured I’d share the tea here. Come along with me on my Japan shopping trip: We’ve got sneaks, stationery, sweets, oh my! Consider this the opposite of no-buy January. There are no rules.*

Let’s get into it.

Teresa

*Actually, there is one rule. The rule is BUYING THE THING YOU LOVE when you’re abroad. Unless it’s beyond your budget, thoughtful travel souvenirs will always bring you joy once you’re home... No regrats!

EVERYTHING I’M SHOPPING FOR IN JAPAN

Ikebana vases. Japanese floral arranging has been on my mind/Pinterest lately, and I’d love to browse this specialty shop for ikebana vessels and teaware.

Kagami crystal whiskey glasses. Mike has pined over these finely etched crystal glasses for at least nine years, which can be found at the Michelin-starred likes of Ryugin. Our glassware cabinet may be bursting, but hey, I’m glad I married someone who also likes beautiful things. 

Hirota glassware. I will also be paying a visit to this recently discovered glassware maker. These soy sauce pourers, EXQUISITE. They also make gorgeous drinking glasses with opalescent designs on the surface—so pretty, just look!

Wooden and ceramic bowls. I drink a lot of miso soup on weeknights (#girldinner) and getting a few traditional wooden miso soup bowls would just elevate the experience! We’ve also broken a few of our ceramic ramen and rice bowls over the years, so I’m hoping to find a few more that I love. 

Matcha and matchaware. Matcha has taken over my morning routine recently, so I’d love to pop into a tea boutique like Seisho-en in Shinjuku or Ippodo near Tokyo Station to find a whisk holder and upgraded bamboo chasen whisk.

Specialty ingredients. I love browsing Tokyo’s Tsukiji outer market, Kyoto’s Nishiki Market, and grocery stores for a few specialty ingredients to bring home like soy sauce, miso, kombu, dashi, nori, etc.

Onitsuka Tiger sneakers. Convinced on the versatility of these as they’re a fave of . I’ve been holding off on buying a new pair of sneakers for spring because I’m excited to shop the Onitsuka store in Omotesando. I’m thinking silver—y/n?

A Cartier Panthere. OK, I’m not actively on the hunt for one but if I happen upon a very good deal on a very good quality Panthere at a vintage watch shop, I’m not NOT going to buy it… it’s called manifestation.

Stationery. Stationery aficionado has me hyped up for Japan stationery shopping. On my list is a Traveler’s Notebook (formerly Midori) from the Traveler’s Notebook Factory in Nakameguro. Find me journaling it up in my new notebook in cozy coffeeshop corners and under clouds of cherry blossoms. / newsletter also turned me onto Stalogy notebooks, which I’ll search for at Tokyu Hands. Also, erasers. I’m still a baby on my pen enthusiast journey, but if you’re into specialty fountain pens, pen boutique Shosaikan sounds like a dream.

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2023 was really not my year. 

We had planned to lay low for Christmas, but December wholly deflated me. A trip, we decided on December 17th, would be just the thing to help us dig our way back out to lightness.

Being the holiday break, we had a rare 10-12 days free. At first, we tossed around South Africa. It’s always been a bucket list destination for us—and a difficult one to plan for when we had a lesser length of time. Safari and a wine tour? Yes please. But as we started mapping out an itinerary, it became clear that a trip of this magnitude would be poorly served by seven days of planning, even for brazen last-minute travelers.

Then we turned to Argentina and Uruguay. I’ve yet to make it to South America, and a destination that wasn’t entire ocean’s worth of time zones away was compelling. But as we started researching, Argentina suddenly started to feel a little overwhelming, too. Was it worth skipping Mendoza wine country to to see Iguazu Falls? Would be basing our whole trip on patchy accommodation availability? We wanted a little sunshine—but was Punta del Este the kind of beach vacation we were craving, or was that going to be a little too Miami? 

In the all too twinkly glow of our Christmas tree, we had an honest conversation about what would fill our cups. It’d been a busy year of travel, but most of our trips had danced around weddings, bachelorettes, birthdays. All so much fun, but this was a trip that was really just for the two of us.

Inspired by Priya Parker’s principles for gathering, we tried to think more intentionally about how to approach what we were trying to do here…

What was the true purpose of this trip? Relax to reset from 2023. Clear our minds from our recent health hurdles and day-to-day. Spend quality time reconnecting with each other.

Once we aligned on that purpose, it became clear that neither South Africa or Argentina were right for this moment in time. In the end, Saint Lucia was what the doctor ordered.

We spent eight days by the water: I read four books in the shade of palm trees. I did laps in the Caribbean sea. I had grilled fish every day—mostly fresh-caught red snapper, the occasional mahi mahi, and on one evening, a grouper that Mike plucked out of the cove by our hotel that the chef then steamed, delicately tucked into banana leaf.

I didn’t turn on a high-speed data plan while we were away, with the aim of staying off of my phone. As intended, all that buffering drained the enjoyment out of mindlessly swiping through Reels on winter capsule wardrobes. The azul waters came more sharply into focus, the smell of salt water more crisp. It was the slow time we needed.

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HOW TO SET TRAVEL INTENTIONS

You can’t do everything on every trip, so choose your focus. Having a primary purpose or goal gives you a decision-making framework to prioritize what’s important and make tradeoffs about how to best spend your time and money.

Here are a couple of framing questions to ask yourself:

1. What is the purpose of this trip?

   Start with uncovering your specific purpose, goal, or intention. We often let our travels be guided by recommendations from our friends, from Conde Nast Traveler, from influencers… which results in going on the exact same trip that every other millennial in our income bracket is chasing. (Have you sipped on tea at Sketch? Had cocktails at Gitano? Clambered down to a seaside lunch at C’as Patro March? It’s okay. We all have.) But unless hitting the most instagrammable spots is your goal (unlikely), you’re better served by identifying what it is that will make an upcoming travels most meaningful for you. A trip to Japan, for example, could be focused on seeking creative inspiration, immersing yourself in the beauty of cherry blossom season, or experiencing the best of the country’s cuisine.

2. How do I want this trip to make me feel?

   We can all remember the trips that made us feel joyful, relaxed, or energized—and the ones that made us feel anxious, drained, or overextended. Ask yourself: How do you want the trip to make you feel, and what are the locales, activities, or accommodations that will take you there? When we considered this question, I thought: Relaxed. Light. Free. Grounded. The lack of “must-dos” in Saint Lucia afforded us that experience. If we’d have booked Argentina, I’d be riddled with fomo over the wineries we’d be missing in Mendoza or the design-forward boutique hotels that I’d been too late to book in Buenos Aires.

3. What types of experiences matter the most?

   If the purpose of your trip is seeking creative inspiration, you can easily prioritize visiting art exhibits, partaking in guided experiences with craftspeople, or perusing unique retail destinations over a delicious but perhaps creatively unmemorable white tablecloth dinner. On this trip, we wanted to read without guilt or distractions, get daily movement, fish (for Mike), and swim/snorkel/dive in the water—our most meditative place.

4. What do we have the opportunity to do on this trip that we can’t do another time or place in our lives?

   Whether location or seasonality—thinking about what this specific time and place offers can help you unearth your intentions. We could easily have gone to Mexico, but that’s achievable in a long weekend from Denver—the Caribbean was not. And since we may be nearing the end of our kid-free era, filtering for destinations we’d be unlikely to travel while pregnant or with a baby/toddler (i.e. requiring a redeye and an overnight flight), helped us hone in on Saint Lucia.

5. What are you okay excluding from this trip?

   Just as important as what to include is what to exclude. I’m guilty of getting caught in the trap of doing the top “things to do” anywhere we go, but follow your purpose, not an internet listicle. When we first booked our flights, knowing that there was a popular hike close to one of our accommodations, I’d packed my hiking shoes. I wanted to hike the Pitons, or so I thought. But did I really want to, or did I just feel like I had to because that’s one of the things people will ask you if you did there? And then I thought, well, I took the trouble of lugging my hiking shoes all the way to the Caribbean—shouldn’t I get some use out of them? The thought of getting up before 6, only to be worn down by the Caribbean heat, was actually not at all appealing. I felt obligated, not excited, and certainly not relaxed, light, or free. Instead of hiking the Pitons, we opted to drink the namesake beer… a much better choice.

If you’d like to share, I’d love to know if this resonates with you in the comments. Have you taken the time to write down your travel intentions before? How has that helped you in trip planning? What is the purpose of your next trip, and where are you thinking of going?

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FIVE FISH RECIPES ON ROTATION

Eating fish day in and day out in Saint Lucia really inspired to go full in on filets in the first month of the year. I am not a proponent of salad for dinner—I need something warm!

I especially love that fish is an easy protein to prepare for one—I buy packs of Chilean sea bass and salmon at Costco and defrost individual filets when ready to cook. Sharing some recent favorites with you…

1. Coconut fish and tomato bake / Yewande Komolafe, NYT: After Saint Lucia, I was craving coconut and curry notes and a richer preparation of white fish for the cold. This hits and comes together very quickly—though it seems like there are quite a few ingredients, everything is whipped up in a single bowl, so cleanup is minimal. 

2. Miso cod / Just One Cookbook: This recipe brings your favorite Japanese restaurant dish to your dinner table. It does require advance preparation, but that actually makes day-of cooking so easy. 

3. Maple glazed salmon / AllRecipes: Simply salted salmon is in my regular rotation, but Denver’s recent bone-chilling temps have been calling for something cozier. This is such an effortless recipe—the ideal weeknight meal. The generous maple syrup probably makes this one of the less healthy options, but this comes as close to a comfort meal as fish gets.

4. Sake steamed sea bass / Bon Appetit: I recommend with Chilean sea bass. Healthy yet indulgently satisfying—the sake and soy entwine for a savory, delicate flavor. I’ve skipped the clam juice before (you could also sub with dashi broth), but this turns out wonderfully regardless.

5. Tuna mayo rice bowl / Eric Kim, NYT: Introducing my lazy-girl lunch as of late. It’s giving onigiri from the konbini flaves. Over a microwaved Bibigo white rice? Delicious, five-minute meal. Substitute canned salmon to switch it up. Kewpie mayo is a must.

I’m forever looking for healthy-ish fish recipes to rotate in, so please share yours with us below!

PS: If you liked today’s post, you might enjoy a few other newsletters I’ve written on travel:

Though I thrived in NYC in my early twenties, these days when I return to New York, the chaos of the city feels a bit much for my soft little country bumpkin Colorado soul. As I’ve gotten older, I’m slightly less inclined toward big cities. Paris, however, felt serene and romantic (again, probably it being September…) and suffice to say, I have a newfound love affair with the city.

Here are my favorite things from this trip:

1. People watching at Cafe Charlot: You know how there’s one thing from every city you just want to take home with you? In Paris, it’s the cafe culture. I could spend hours just sitting on a street corner on a sunny day watching chic Parisians go by. Cafe Charlot is situated in the ideal spot for people watching, just blocks away from all the Marais boutiques.

2. The Musee d’Orsay: I skipped a visit to the Louvre this time around but went to the Musee d’Orsay for the first time—such a gem. The museum is housed in a beautiful old train station station. I loved getting to see all of the Manets, Monets, and Van Goghs up close! We rented the audio guide, which I’d highly recommend (there are limited plaques with English descriptions). My takeaway is that the impressionist artists were all friends who lived together, partied together, painted each other’s ladies, and remixed each other’s art. Basically the TikTok mansions / the Hype House of the late 1800s. If, like us, you arrive starving, there’s a cafe with delicious sandwiches, as well as a full-on restaurant inside.

3. Shopping in the Marais: Shopping in Paris counts as a cultural activity, especially when you are coming from the shopping dead zone that is Denver, Colorado (Denver girlies, IYKYK). It was such a treat to pop into shops for brands that are basically not even stocked in this state like Lou Lou Studio and Isabel Marant, as well as to peruse French brands like Rouje and Bobbies. Sandro, Maje, and BA&SH seemed to be on every corner in Paris. The current favorable exchange rate and the tourist detax makes it a very exciting time for shopping at the moment—for anyone in the market, by my calculations it’s the ideal time and place to splurge on an investment bag! One major disappointment was the Sezane store—I never order anything from Sezane online but was excited to pop into L’Appartement. While the store was merchandised beautifully, the shop associates were pretty unhelpful and sizing was very limited. I did not buy much in Paris but had a joyous time browsing the most beautiful things all day long.

4. Boat cruise with Vedettes du Pont Nouf: I wanted to book a sunset boat cruise on the Seine and landed on Vedettes du Pont Nouf—I was a little apprehensive of the large size of the boat/group, but the company came pretty highly recommended. We embarked at 7:15 p.m., and they time it so that you cruise right by the Eiffel Tower as it sparkles from 8:00-8:05 p.m. (make sure you go after dusk to see it sparkle!) A sparkly Eiffel Tower does not get old. At only 15€ per person, I’d definitely do it again. For a more private option, consider Paris Luxury Boat and Green River Cruises, though we opted out of both because their classic wooden boats were clearly priced for proposals ($$$), and going down the Seine in a pontoon boat, while more reasonably priced, just doesn’t feel appropriate to me…

   

5. French classics at Bistrot de Tournelles: Named best bistrot in Paris by Le Fooding, Bistrot de Tournelles was our last dinner to cap off our time in France. It’s a cozy, unpretentious little spot with just a few tables that oozes vintage charm. We went for the classics: steak frites, foie gras, creme brulee. French food is the cuisine I gravitate least toward, but this trip has inspired me to give French dining more of a chance.

6. Ordering champagne everywhere: We also took every opportunity to enjoy a glass of champagne, because is (actual) champagne on any menu nearly $30 a glass in your city these days, too? When in Paris, it was often a delightful €10-15, which made my heart sing.

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Soaking up the street style of Paris was such a treat! Parisians really are the most chic. Best believe I was *taking notes* on their effortless, slightly undone looks.

• Lots of sneakers! Like New York, I think in Paris you also sort of have to dress very functionally for the day, per Allison Bornstein’s take on NY vs LA dressing

• Adidas Sambas were EVERYWHERE—most frequently the white with black stripe or black with white stripe

• Black loafers

• Birkenstocks—both clogs and sandals! I have been excited about Birkenstocks exactly zero times before Paris but am finally being converted (probably just as the trend passes, haha)

• Oversized blazers and trench coats and leather trenches

• Denim and leather midi skirts

• Celine oval sunglasses and sunglasses with red lenses

OK—that’s all for now! See you next time, Paris.

PS: If you plan your trips around eating, a subscription is well worth it! Love Le Fooding, too, for Paris restaurant recommendations. also has the guide you need for what brands to shop in Paris.

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More than ever, booking an Airbnb feels like a gamble of an experience. Kate Lindsay writes in the Atlantic this week:

“Airbnb was launched in 2008, a year after beginning as three air mattresses on the floor of its founders’ living room, but it is no longer a scrappy, community-minded platform powered by the gig economy. It’s an industry in itself, full of endless hosts and large property companies that manage dozens or hundreds of listings at a time. The relentless increase in quantity has stretched the quality thin.” 

We’ve certainly been noticing this quiet thinning in quality over time. Hosts will charge a $300 cleaning fee but clearly have done only a rudimentary sweep on their own (and some people, myself included, really do not possess the skills to make a home sparkle like a professional). Then you get the Airbnbs that send a checkout to-do list a dozen items long, insisting that you strip the beds, run the dishwasher, start towel laundry, and take out the trash bins. Once, I even wandered the streets of London on a Sunday afternoon looking for towels because the host didn’t provide any!

What you rarely experience these days is that magic Airbnb once promised: of being welcomed into a home with above-and-beyond hospitality. Of feeling like you’re not just some tourist passing through, but someone who is momentarily part of a community. (That said, does anybody actually want that anymore, or are we all just looking for a contactless check-in and a hotel-like stay?)

On one of our first weekends at the lake house, one of our neighbors who is a full-time resident aggressively pushed the “please don’t Airbnb your house” agenda. While at first it was a bit off-putting, now we get it.

Quiet family of six getting away for the weekend in a three-bedroom house? I’m all for it. 12-person bachelor party in the same space? Not cool. When an Airbnb host chooses to prioritize profit by maxing out their occupancy, it means rowdy groups hanging out on the lakefront and excessive cars blocking the street. We’ve witnessed firsthand how a couple of Airbnbs on our street can completely change the dynamic of a mountain weekend. Your investment property shouldn’t wreak havoc on your neighbors’ right to quiet enjoyment.

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